Train journeys have always held some kind of fascination for me. I preferred them over buses and flights and did not necessarily mind the longer time it took compared to the latter. During these journeys, my focus had always been on the train as an encompassing space – on the sights, smells, and sounds.

In the past couple of years, working in history and heritage and looking at Chennai through newer lenses, I started looking at trains, especially train stations, differently. That Chennai is home to the oldest surviving railway station in the country was a piece of information I had grazed across; the significance of it started to take the forefront when Madras Inherited received a call from the Commercial Division of the Southern Railway.

The meeting was to be at the Southern Railway Headquarters, a building I had been in awe of since memory serves me, and it was an absolute joy to look at it up close. What was even more joyful was the proposal to curate and lead heritage walks in collaboration with Southern Railways, through some of the most historic and celebrated railway stations in the city. It was a subject matter that was entirely new to me and presented me with so many possibilities.

Heritage Walks: Connecting the Dots Between Past and Present

It was decided that there would be two heritage walks, one that focused on the marvellous triumvirate – the aforementioned Southern Railway Headquarters, the Central Railway Station, and the Egmore Railway Station – and another that focused on the iconic Royapuram Railway Station and its surroundings.

Researching for these walks involved numerous visits to the library and reading through several books, some of which contained valuable illustrations and depictions of the early days of the railways in Madras. It also helped me grasp the central role that the Madras Presidency played in ushering in new developments in British India.

Madras, being considered the seat of administration and education, was set to gain from the plans to establish the very first rail track in the country. Alas, that plan didn’t come to fruition and the honour went elsewhere. But, the presidency soon picked up pace and caught up. The initial lines established focused on connecting hubs of military, trade, and commerce.

A more visible, tangible feature of the rail journey in Chennai (Madras) is its railway stations. The image of Chennai Central Railway Station is forever emblazoned on anyone who sets foot there. It is an image and a landmark is closely associated with the city, an association that one can be sure will never change.

While the Central Station has influences of the Romanesque style of architecture, with its Roman arches, cresting on the parapet, and the dominating clock tower, the Egmore Station is more ‘Indian’, or ‘Dravidian’. Taking on the manifestation of the Indo-Saracenic style that was birthed right here in Madras, this station has elements that resonate more with this region, be it the motifs, ornamentation, or the crowning features of the building. Having understood that these two stations served as primary stations for two different railway companies, the reasoning behind sitting them a mere 2 km apart makes complete sense!

Debut and Delight: Overwhelming Responses to Heritage Walks

The walks debuted in February and March of 2023 and saw overwhelming responses every single time. The participants were delighted at embarking on these personal, up-close tours and views of the stops on the walks, and more often than not contributed to the conversation with valuable titbits of information. The walk was also held privately for school students, with the support of NGO Bhumi, and this enabled taking the dialogue forward and creating greater awareness.

Furthermore, with Southern Railways on board and extending their support, it opened up access to spaces that were generally restricted to public viewing and touring. This enabled a holistic understanding of the subject matter being discussed.

Having had the opportunity to work on these two walk routes, from scratch to completion, and lead them for some wonderful people has only increased my admiration and love for this city I call home. I can only hope that similar collaborations will enable dialogues and discussions around the several extraordinary heritage that abound in the city of Chennai.

Ashmitha Athreya is a formally trained architect with a postgraduate degree in Heritage Studies. She is currently a trustee, head of operations, and lead storyteller in Madras Inherited, an initiative passionate about making significant changes in the domain of heritage.