Indian classical dance is a captivating art form elevated by mesmerising movements and intricate embellishments. Beyond the enchanting makeup and exquisite costumes, the jewellery pattern is a testament to its grandeur. Indian classical dance jewellery is not mere embellishments but pieces of symbolism, tradition, and spiritual expression. Each piece, from the intricate ‘maang tikka’ gracing the forehead to the melodious anklets adorning the feet, carries profound significance deeply rooted in ancient cultural beliefs and artistic traditions.
Here, we will explore the key aspects related to the spiritual and cultural beliefs of Indian dance jewellery.
Temple Jewellery
Initially crafted to adorn deities, temple jewellery has transcended its original purpose. Today, it is a beacon of divinity in classical dance performances. Adorned with replicas of gods and goddesses, motifs of lotus, leaves, conch shells, and more, these pieces symbolise purity, beauty, and transcendence, adding a divine touch to the dance. Many dancers have shared how wearing these pieces during their performances makes them feel connected to the divine, enhancing their spiritual experience of the dance.
Maang Tikka
The soul of Indian classical dance is deeply connected with our spiritual culture, and the adornments we wear are not just accessories but extensions of our spiritual beliefs. The maang tikka, the ornament used to adorn the forehead by the dancers, symbolises ‘Ajna Chakra,’ an essential aspect of yogic practice. It is not just a piece of jewellery but a conduit for intuition, insight, and spiritual awakening, making the dancer’s performance a spiritual journey.
Ghungroo
The most crucial ornament in Indian classical dance is the ghungroo. This anklet is adorned with tiny brass bells that make rhythmic sounds according to the movements and steps. Ghungroo is also known as ‘Chilanka or Silangai’. This ornament is used in various forms of Indian classical dance, such as Bharatanatyam, Mohiniyattom, Kuchipudi, Kathak, and Kathakali. Each of these dances has its own unique style regarding the use of the ghungroo, but in all of them, the ghungroo’s rhythmic sound enhances the musicality of the dance.
Ottiyaanam
Ottiyaanam, aka waist belt, emphasises the aesthetic appeal of the waist movements while dancing. It is available in simple and intricate designs inspired by nature, mythology, and other patterns that indirectly symbolise harmony with cosmic energy.
Karnaphul
Usually, big jumkas connected with long ear chains are the adornments which add extra beauty to the dancer’s face. Jumkas are embellished with stones or beads, symbolising divine hearing, receptivity to divine guidance, or adornment as an offering to the gods.
Kangan And Vanki
Bangles and armlets (Kangan and Vanki) worn by classical dancers emphasise the beauty of the arms and hands, enhancing the aesthetic appeal of gestures and movements. If we analyse the symbolism of arm jewellery, it may represent strength, grace, femininity, cultural identity, and marital status.
The designs of jewellery vary across regions, reflecting cultural and artistic traditions. Yet, the purpose and symbolism of each piece remain the same, connecting all these diverse designs with a common thread of spirituality and tradition. If the jewellery was carefully crafted by hand initially, modern techniques are also used today for polishing and finishing touches, blending the old and the new in a harmonious way of tradition and innovation.
