In the fashion world, motifs are considered the overarching themes that give clothing its style, aesthetic appeal and different meanings. Various techniques can be employed to design a motif for the garment. It could be a print, an embroidery or applique. Among these techniques, embroidery is one of a kind since it uses thread, beads, and needles to create its designs. Using this technique, artists create various motifs and patterns that represent the cultural identities of a region, brand, trend and artistic expression. You can elevate the style of any garment with exquisite needlework.
In the Indian fashion realm, we have a wide variety of designs, each representing the cultural diversity of its creators. The Indian fashion industry boasts unique designs, each telling vivid stories of their working pattern. These stitching methods have been passed down through generations, shaping fashion in distinctive ways.
Kantha work
Kantha embroidery from West Bengal is known for its simplicity and elegance. Artisans create intricate and elaborate designs using basic running stitches on the fabrics. Usually, this stitch is done on quilts made from old or recycled fabrics.
The beauty of Kantha work is not limited to clothing; it also adds visual appeal to home décor items like bedsheets, table runners, and more. Kantha embroidery has become increasingly popular among international designers, who have included this traditional technique in their collections.
Chikankari
Chikankari is the delicate threadwork from Lucknow. This work is renowned for its intricate floral, paisley and wine designs, usually stitched on muslin or chiffon cloths using white thread. In addition to traditional clothes, this embroidery technique adds a fusion touch to Western wear.
Kashida
Have you noticed the lovely floral motifs found on pashmina shawls? The intricate patterns are created by stitching long threads of different colours. This work is called Kashida embroidery, which is a unique pattern hailing from Kashmir. Patterns of fruits, birds, leaves, and flowers are stitched onto dark-toned garments using brightly coloured threads in this work.
Phulkari
Phulkari work represents the cultural heritage of Punjab.Phulkari work differs from other embroidery works as it uses large motifs of flowers on fabrics, including shawls and dupattas. It is a beautiful design technique that has found its way into contemporary fashion design, accessories and home decor.
Zardozi
The bridal lehengas and sherwanis are often adorned with zardozi embroidery, a form of royal needlework. It originated in the Mughal era, when royal fabrics were mainly designed using this technique. ‘Zar’ means gold, and ‘dozi’ means fabric. As the name suggests, metallic-coloured threads, pearls and other embellishments are used in this work. Zardozi embroidery is a more detailed and accurate design technique relevant to modern and traditional clothing.
Kasuti
The Karnataka cities of Dharwad and Bijapur are the birthplaces of Kasuti needlework. Delicate geometric patterns, such as squares, triangles, and straight lines, are showcased in this design technique. Traditionally, this embroidery is done on white or off-white fabrics using black silk thread.
Gota patti
Gota means slender ribbons made of gold or silver-toned thread. Gota patti, or Gota work, is a unique embroidery technique from Rajasthan. Metallic ribbons are used to create lovely borders and motifs. This work is used to decorate traditional garments such as saris, dupattas, lehengas, salwars and accessories such as small purses and footwear.
Banjara
Banjara work got its name from the nomadic tribes of Rajasthan. Their travels allowed this design technique to spread over the globe. In Banjara embroidery, artisans use dark-toned thick clothes to make designs using cross stitches. To enhance the patterns, they add seashells, mirrors, and beads. It is a highly sought-after traditional fashion statement due to its use of mirrors, vivid colours, and elaborate stitching, which add to the variety and depth of textile traditions worldwide.
